Mystic mountainous Yuksom: far from the madding crowd

Yuksom (Sikkim): With lush green mountains that turn a dreamy blue when clouds roll in from the heights of the Himalayas, the town of Yuksom at the entrance of the Kanchenjunga National Park in western Sikkim is at once scenic, mystic and almost otherworldly.

About 160 km from the nearest airport Bagdogra in Siliguri, West Bengal, Yuksom could well be a Shangri La. Sparsely populated, the quiet town holds historic and religious significance through its ancient connection with the early progress of Buddhism in the region as well as for being the first capital of the Kingdom of Sikkim, established in 1642.

The Bagdogra international airport is well connected with most major Indian cities, but the eight-hour drive from there to Yuksom is tough, full of pleasant surprises and jolting realisations.

One can reach the village by taking private taxis from Bagdogra or Siliguri Junction, which is around 12 km from the airport. The taxis can cost from Rs 5,000 to Rs 10,000 based on the type of vehicle. Alternatively, shared cabs also run from Jorethang, Geyzing, Tashiding, Pelling and Gangtok for a much lesser amount.

There is no public transport to reach Yuksom.

Its remote location at the altitude of 1,780 metres above sea level and difficult journey makes it one of the less frequented tourist destinations, except for adventurous mountaineers heading to the Kanchenjunga.

Tall pine, oak, sal, and bamboo trees are the picturesque ride-along on a road that frequently runs parallel to a full-bodied Teesta river and its tributary Rangit, which makes a majestic appearance from behind rocky mountain slopes and disappears just as elegantly.

The road to Yuksom for most parts is rocky terrain, washed away by the rain in some places or broken to bits by landslides and falling rocks in others. The small stretches where the memory of a road still exists provide relief along with the sight of edges dotted by varieties of rhododendron, primroses, thick-leafed roses and a wild selection of resplendent flowers.

The state’s religious and political histories also find their origins in this small town, which is a major pilgrimage site for Buddhists from across the world.

Yuksom, which translates to “the meeting place of three learned monks”, is home to the holy site of Norbugang, which is believed to be the place where Lama Lutsum Chembo reached from Tibet in 1641 to propagate the Buddhist religion. He was then joined by two others, Sempa Chembo and Rinzing Chembo.

The three monks crowned Phuntsog Namgyal and gave him the title Chogyal, meaning religious king, in a holy ceremony at Norbugang in 1642, officially making him the first King of Sikkim and Yuksom the first capital.

The Namgyal monarchy of 12 kings lasted for 333 years from 1642 until 1975, when Sikkim became a part of India.

The Norbugang coronation throne, a large structure of rocks and bricks under a large cryptomeria pine tree, remains a popular spot among visitors.

The area of Norbugang is also considered to be blessed by the 9th century Buddhist guru Padmasambhava.

The town’s religious significance is further enhanced by the presence of the famous Tibetan Buddhist Dubdi Monastery, established in 1701. It is believed to be the oldest Buddhist monastery in Sikkim, according to the official website of the Sikkim government.

Yuksom hosts mountaineers from all around the globe aiming to scale the third-highest peak in the world – Kanchenjunga – which is also the reason there are a few hotels and homestays.

As it serves as the base camp for the Himalayan trekkers, the economy of Yuksom with a population of nearly 2,000, according to the 2011 census, is centred around tourism.

Nearly a dozen hotels and homestays in and around Yuksom offer a quiet and comfortable stay at the sleepy village with local food and beverages on the menu.

Mild-flavoured recipes such as ‘ema datshi’, which loosely translates to chilli and cheese; ‘maku’, prepared with local cheese and butter; ‘ningro curry’, made with wild fiddlehead fern; and spicier ones as local preparations of mutton, chicken and fish, to go with millet breads and rice, make for some delectable local meals.

The traditional millet beer ‘chhang’ is served hot in a bamboo vessel, which is filled to the brim with fermented finger millet and hot water.

An effort to put Yuksom on the tourist map was made with the Sikkim Arts and Literature Festival organised in April. Several authors, including Anand Neelakantan, Anuja Chauhan, Chuden Kabimo, Hoihnu Hauzel and Manjiri Prabhu, as well as bibliophiles visited the town.

During the course of the festival, national and international visitors got to experience the warm hospitality of the residents, their traditions, music and food.

Yuksom also serves as the entry to the Kanchenjunga National Park, which was declared India’s first Mixed World Heritage Site by UNESCO. A place is declared a mixed heritage site if it is of both natural and cultural significance.

Situated in the cradle of nature, with lakes and trails in abundance, the town of Yuksom is full of reasons for one to leave the city life behind and spend a few days, or weeks in its scenic splendour.