The elegant lightness of JJV

JJ Valaya – sophisticated opulence defines him. Described as “the future of the past” by the erstwhile Maharani of Kapurthala, he has been the undisputed Czar of Indian Haute Couture for nearly three decades. Little wonder that this maestro has always been ahead of his time.

In the mid-90s, when the world had only just been introduced to the wonders of the internet, he was perhaps one of the first Indian fashion designers to launch a website. In tune with his vision of leading fashion from the front, the designer recently announced the launch of his all-new sustainable bridge-to-luxury line JJV.

The newly launched line will feature modern and experimental silhouettes made from Tencel Luxe filament yarn—a new standard of sustainable luxury fabrics for clothing with its silky smoothness, liquid-like drape and colour vibrancy. An environment-friendly initiative, Tencel Luxe filament yarn fits in seamlessly with Valaya’s theme of accessible elegance.



JJV is the House of Valaya’s (which opened its doors in April this year in Delhi) foray into a cooler and more accessible line. It aims to cater to all its present customers as well as those who desire to embrace the ethos of the ‘royal nomad’—a Valaya staple that celebrates a new definition of style through a lighter line of fashion separates.

JJV acknowledges and embraces this need, where one can still maintain a unique sense of personal style albeit sans the weight of heavy embroideries. It’s the lightness of the being, the designer is aiming at. At the same time, it retains the distinct signature of the JJ Valaya ethos. It is a modern label for the modern traveller who likes to be prepared for celebrations wherever he/she may go.



Creator of the legendary classic jacket for women—the Alika—which was born in 2010 and revolutionised fashion, the Jodhpur-born Valaya says this of his new collection, “For three wonderful decades, we have been a part of people’s weddings and celebrations and indeed, there is no greater feeling! This year, as we celebrate our 30th year in fashion as a luxury occasion wear brand, we take a step further into our world with the launch of our all-new bridge-to-luxury brand, JJV. As a true royal nomad at heart, I have always felt that whilst we all prefer to travel light, there are so many instances during these journeys where we need to dress up to step out. It could be an impromptu soiree, a high-tea, a visit to a high-brow gallery, fine dining experiences or an evening at the opera.

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In spirit, the Valaya brand is a tribute to the splendour of Punjab. More specifically, it stands inspired by the unique life of Maharaja Jagatjit Singh of Kapurthala, the land of Valaya’s forefathers, the Ahlowalias. The couturier explains, “For the longest time, India’s image around the world was that of the land of the exotic Maharajas and one man, who personified this was Maharaja Jagatjit Singh of Kapurthala. Long before the age of modern jetliners and social media, his travels in the US, Argentina, Chile, Japan and the farthest corners of Siberia, would create a sensation, as crowds would throng the streets from Buenos Aires to Hong Kong to have a glimpse of this exotic potentate. JJV, therefore, sifts through never seen before photographs and extracts from his personal diaries and travelogues to interpret the story of a ruler who wanted to bring the world to his people and also take his people to the world.”



“Bored” with where Indian fashion was heading—“There was no attention given to detail. People were doing and redoing the same old stuff. No one was experimenting”—Valaya took a two-year sabbatical from the world of fashion in 2017. The time, he says in many later interviews, “helped me introspect and I came back with the urge to create something new”. “My travels during this period helped me realise my deep and abiding bond with couture and timeless style,” he says.



His three decades at the helm of Indian fashion have seen him evolve taking fashion along with him. When he started out, there were hardly any Indian designers of global note. Also, there were hardly any people—critics or enthusiasts—talking fashion. When he started out, this crown prince of Delhi-based National Institute of Fashion Technology stumbled before he could taste success. His collection at his first commercial show after passing out was a letdown with nothing selling. His failure led him to Indian history, art and heritage. Within this, Valaya found his abiding muse that catapulted him onto the global stage. Today he believes that a sense of pride needs to be cultivated for Indian craft and heritage and stress needs to be on the strengths and core of Indian fashion. After all, Gucci doesn’t make saris and lehengas, does it? So why should Valaya go beyond what defines fashion for India?



He may be the last word on grandeur, but the designer maintains that his designs are for everyone, not just the bride or groom. The maestro of Indian fashion swears by the classic pair of jeans and a jacket, albeit an Alika, or the younger sibling IKA—a DIY ensemble for the patrons. Hence, JJV. It’s a line that comprises almost everything—from saris and skirt sets to kaftans, maxi dresses, tunics, shirts and jackets. Simple, classic, statement-making, chic, elegant, comfortable and more. Impossible to have all of it together in one garment, you say? Not for the magician of design, who defines his luxuriant oeuvre in these simple words: “Don’t come to me just to pick up something for a wedding or a party. Come to me when you are looking for that something special that reflects the real you in a unique elegant way.”