Rohit Bal: The Valley boy who strode to great heights in fashion

New Delhi: He blazed a trail on the catwalks of high fashion, blending traditional craft with bold aesthetics to create designs that found appeal in India and the west. Rohit Bal was a pioneer and legacy maker, his creations grandiose, his shows opulent – much like the man himself.

Known for his intricate use of rich fabrics like velvet and brocade adorned with signature flower and peacock motifs, Bal’s creations redefined Indian couture on a global scale.

He was one of the early designers to take Indian fashion beyond its shores by dressing up Hollywood celebrities like Cindy Crawford, Uma Thurman, Pamela Anderson and Naomi Campbell.

In India, he was a much revered figure among celebrities. Actors such as Ranbir Kapoor, Kareena Kapoor Khan, Katrina Kaif, Sonam Kapoor, Abhishek Bachchan, Arjun Rampal and others either walked for Bal or sported his designs at events.

The couturier, who died at the age of 63 on Friday night at a south Delhi hospital following a heart attack, was not keeping well for the last few years. Bal, who was fondly called Gudda by his peers and friends from the industry, pulled through a major health scare in December last year but true to his style, he was working behind-the-scenes for his final showcase on October 13.

He looked frail and struggled to walk and even stumbled while making his way to the stage, but despite that, he kept his spirits high and danced like the true rockstar of Indian fashion as models and Bollywood star Ananya Pandey supported him.

Pandey, who had turned his muse and showstopper for the gala night, presented Bal with a rose at the end of the show to honour his designs which were filled with red blooms.

As he took the bow at the end of the Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI show, many in the crowd cheered for him with an inkling that the magic and the beauty they just witnessed on the ramp was perhaps for the last time.

But no one in the fashion fraternity thought that Bal would pass away just two weeks later.

Bal embraced life with the same boldness and vibrancy that he infused into his designs and his collection, ‘Kaaynaat: A Bloom In The Universe’, was a testament to this spirit.

It was a fitting finale for a designer whose artistry and energy left a lasting impact on the fashion world.

Bal's approach to fashion was a captivating blend of art, history, and folklore, and he elevated his designs to high art by drawing on India’s cultural heritage.

A history graduate from St Stephen’s College, the designer was adept at marrying historical influences with his imaginative flair to create high couture.

In an interview with PTI in 2019, Bal spoke about his uncompromising design philosophy.

"I always stuck to who I am and never did what everybody else was doing. I have a very strong and focused design philosophy, and I adhere to that. I believe anything you do from your heart and soul will always stay relevant. I am comfortable in being classic, elegant, and timeless, and it has contributed a lot to my brand and career as a designer,” Bal said.

Born on May 8, 1961 in Srinagar, Bal followed his passion for fashion by training at the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) in Delhi.

He initially worked in his family’s export business, learning the industry's fundamentals before launching his own label in 1990 and then there was no looking back for him.

In 1996, Time magazine hailed Bal as India’s "Master of fabric and fantasy", a title that underscored his artistic approach.

By 2001, Bal’s reputation was firmly established internationally, with tennis star Anna Kournikova walking for his Paris show that year.

His influence went beyond fashion, extending into luxury product collaborations such as footwear, linens, jewellery, and even watches, and he worked with industry giants like the Aditya Birla Group.

His talent also found its way into costume designs for contestants on "Kaun Banega Crorepati," hosted by megastar Amitabh Bachchan, and outfitting British Airways’ cabin crew.

Though Bal became famous world over for his work, at heart, he remained a boy from the Valley, always carrying a piece of his homeland, Kashmir, in his heart, and in his designs which were often drawn from its flora and fauna. “The Valley offers so much inspiration, and I have always picked up something from the flora which is very exclusive to Kashmir. There are so many beautiful landscapes and mountains. But a lot depends on the medium you are expressing your feelings through.

"If I were a painter, I would have focused on the streams and waterfalls, probably. But I believe as a designer, flowers complement my work the best,” Bal told PTI in 2019.

Poor health had led him to withdraw from public and professional engagements in the last few years.

He may be gone but Bal's imprint on Indian fashion will serve as an inspiration for later generations.